I know, even the title of this one sounds cheesy, but it’s the gosh darn truth! After two and a half days riding through West Texas, I couldn’t help but think Damn, Texas is huge! Riding east from El Paso, along the border for miles along its booming Mexican sister-city Juarez I passed from city bustle to winding agricultural highway within a few miles.

I was happy to finally arrive at Fort Hancock, especially because I got there only 2 miles after surviving my first attack, a ferocious dog chased me barking and biting at my heels for about 150 yards, as I sped up to 21mph to get away! (I briefly reconsidered the advice folks had given me about bringing mace or a pistol.)

When I got into town, I couldnt help but feel disappointed that this, the only town I had seen in miles, was nothing more than a truck stop, post office, motel and diner.  Oh well, I thought, at least I’ll get something to eat at Angie’s Restaurant.  This was an easy choice to make being the only restaurant in town!

As I chowed down a double serving of enchiladas and a bowl of pasta I observed the folks coming in to the spot.  Long-haul truckers just dropping in on their way through the I-10, as well as the town’s local kids who made for boisterous company as they came to east after their middle school basketball game ended.

I introduced myself to the woman at the counter, who told me she was Angie.  “The Angie?!” I asked, with a sheepish grin.  “Yes”, she replied, “we’ve been here for twenty-three years now, the same three women cooking, serving and running the place”.  Its not everyday that you meet someone as nice as these three were.  Angie ended up giving me my meal for free, and telling me about the charming qualities of living in a town so small as Fort Hancock.  Being a town establishment for over two decades has given them a strong connection to the community.  They know the kids and their families who come come through by name, and its a place where youth can go to stay out of trouble.

If you’re driving east from El Paso and passing through Fort Hancock, you’ll definitely have to check out Angie’s.  Don’t worry about directions, its easy to spot and the only place you’re gonna find a decent meal in town!

Alfredo Tobar is a man with many talents, a keen sense for justice, and a big mouth.Restaurant owner, City Commissioner, Artista and Rebel are a few of the titles he proudly wears. We met Wednesday night at Pepe’s Café in Ozona, Texas, the only town I had seen in over 90 miles. Ozona seems like your quintessential Texas small-town. I had lucked-out when I connected the Pastor’s wife when I called Christ Church earlier in the afternoon. They extended their southern hospitality and invited me to their Wednesday night fellowship meeting for dinner. Pastor Johnnie’s message was about blessings, something I’ve been receiving a whole lot of lately. After the service we chatted about the Obama and the state of the town’s oil trade (Texas -Tea is the town’s primary industry). A few members of the “proudly Republican” bunch even went so far as to speculate to Obama’s election already causing a downturn in the local economy. Leaving the church, Pastor Johnnie dropped me off across the street at Pepe’s Café, one of the few joints that would be open after 9pm on a weeknight. I walked in and was shocked to see huge paintings of Obama, Che and even Lil Weezy himself! I sat down and ordered two entrees (the usual nowadays with the metabolism I’ve got) and was soon joined by Alfredo Tobar, the cordial owner and creator of the pop-art that decorates the small restaurant. He began to detail a very different town than I had heard about back at the church.

Ozona exemplifies the historic Anglo/Mexican conflict that has shaped so much of Texas’ history. Gun toting lawmen abuse their authority on the local Hispanic population, (according to Tobar, 42% of the town’s Latino minors already have a record), and the rich have gotten their way for quite some time. The current state of affairs has placed Tobar at odds with much of the wealthier white community, many of whom hold ties to the oil business. Eight months after he was elected Commissioner he underwent fraudulent allegations and a trumped-up charges in a trial that lasted over 8 months. The trial was premeditated by the town’s local sheriff, who seems to have allegiance to the local oil-istocracy. (Read more about the trial here )

Tobar was found not guilty on all three counts this past June, but his business has still suffered. “Now there’s white folks who [for fear of risking their jobs] won’t come into the restaurant any more. In fact… since everyone knows my food is some of the best in town, they’ll order take-out send somebody else to pick it up!”

A strong will and a passion for following what he believes is right are what I could see guides this man. He has defiantly expressed his no-nonsense sensibilities on murals around the town ever since his youth. His fascinating stories seemed endless as he told me about growing up and trying to do the right thing in a small town riddled with drug traffic from the Mexican cartels. “I was a pretty wild young man, I must say”, he explains while showing off a picture of him holding an Uzi at age 23.  “But i’ve changed alot”, he said.

I would have to describe Alfredo’s energy as tenacious.  He’s always getting himself into something, and much like his youth, he’s challenged to do the right thing in a world full of wrong.  Heck, where I live in LA, it seems like when the local law enforcement are against you, you’re often on the right side of justice.

From troubled youth to city commissioner all within half a century is impressive and inspirational.  I valued Tobar’s renaissance-man look at life, and especially how he seamlessly incorporates his personal and political mission. While his mouth seems to get him in trouble, his art speaks for itself.  His rebellious spirit shows in the exterior of Pepe’s Café, styled to resemble the Alamo.  He remodeled it himself proudly stating “I always wanted to have my own Alamo, besides, there’s not really much I can’t do, so I pretty much do everything myself”.

I greatly appreciated meeting Alfredo. If you’re ever driving through West Texas on the I-10 you’ll have to drop by and see for yourself. I can honestly say that he is the type of man that I aspire to be one day…just not in a town so small as Ozona!

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